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GameRoomSetup

Starter Game Room Build: A Complete Room for Under $2,000

Updated 2026-08-17 Researched from published specs, not tested in person
The short answer

A complete starter game room costs about $1,399 and fits a spare bedroom. The money goes into a cabinet dartboard set at $215, a 7 ft MDF pool table and accessories at $748, cross lighting at $69, and flooring, seating and storage at $367. Nothing in it needs an installer, an electrician or a slate delivery.

This is the tier where most people should start, and the one most guides skip because there is less commission in it. The premise is a spare bedroom, a bonus room over a garage or one end of an unfinished basement, a budget of roughly two thousand dollars, and no appetite for a delivery crew carrying slate down a stairwell. Everything below is priced, linked and adds up to $1,399, and the room plays the weekend it arrives.

The second game is a 7 ft MDF pool table , and the honest framing of that purchase matters more than the price. It will never roll perfectly true. It also gets a real table with real pockets into a room for the cost of a sofa, with no installer, no 13'6" of slate coming down your stairs and no four-figure commitment to a room you may not keep. Check it against your own space with the room size calculator before you order, because the table needs 13 ft 6 in by 16 ft 9 in of clear floor with a standard cue and no amount of enthusiasm changes that number.

The complete starter build, $1,399

The anchor game

Darts first, and not as a consolation prize. A dartboard is the only serious game that fits a spare bedroom, costs about a hundred dollars, hangs on a wall, and gets played every single evening rather than twice a year. Everything else in this build assumes the board is going up.

Item Why this one Qty Price Buy
Accudart Match Pro Dartboard Cabinet Set Cabinet, bristle board, two sets of darts and the scoreboard in one box. The cabinet doors close over the board so the room stops reading as a games room when you want it to, and they catch a fraction of the stray darts. 1 $104.99 Price
Viper Edge Peel-and-Stick Throw Line A peel-and-stick oche at the regulation 7 ft 9.25 in. Two dollars of tape decides whether your practice transfers to any other board in the world, so it is not optional. 1 $11.96 Price
Red Dragon Pegasus 24g Tungsten Darts A real tungsten set at 24 g. The brass darts that come free in a cabinet set are fatter for the same weight, which means they crowd the trebles. This is the single cheapest upgrade in darts. 1 $38.00 Price
Winmau Pro Line Dartboard Surround Optional A foam ring around the board that eats the darts that miss. Cheaper than filling and repainting the wall once, and much cheaper than doing it every year. 1 $59.95 Price
The anchor game subtotal $214.90
The second game

One game is a hobby, two is a room. The 7 ft MDF table is the honest budget answer: it will never roll perfectly true, and it will still get played four evenings a week by people who are not going to notice.

Item Why this one Qty Price Buy
GoSports 7ft Pool Table, Wood Finish A real 7 ft table with pockets, rails and a proper cloth for the price of a sofa. MDF bed, so it has a stated life of roughly three to eight years rather than decades, and it assembles in an afternoon with no installer and no slate coming down the stairs. 1 $599.99 Price
GARSEN Canadian Maple 58in Cue Set of 4 Four maple cues at fourteen dollars each. House cues, not player cues, and that is the right call when the table itself is the compromise. 1 $56.95 Price
Barrington 24-Piece Pool Table Kit Balls, triangle, chalk, brush, tip repair and a bridge in one box. Buying these separately costs more and takes three deliveries. 1 $52.99 Price
Viper Solid Oak Wall Cue Rack, 8 Cues Cues left leaning in a corner warp inside a year. Thirty eight dollars of wall rack is the difference between four straight cues and four bananas. 1 $37.78 Price
The second game subtotal $747.71
Light you can actually play under

The most common failure in a starter room is not the table, it is a single ceiling bulb behind the player throwing a body shadow across the board and the cloth. Fixing that costs under a hundred dollars.

Item Why this one Qty Price Buy
hykolity 4ft Linkable LED Shop Light Two linkable 4 ft LED shop lights, one either side of the play area rather than one in the middle. Cross lighting is what kills the shadow. At 5,000 lumens each these also make a beige basement look finished. 2 $55.98 Price
KSIPZE 50ft LED Strip Light Fifty feet of strip light for the ceiling perimeter or under the table rails. Ambient fill so the room is not a bright box floating in a dark one, and it costs less than a takeaway. 1 $12.99 Price
Light you can actually play under subtotal $68.97
Floor, seating and the rest of the room

This is the part people cut, and it is the part that decides whether anyone stays in the room for two hours. A hard floor under a dart lane is loud and cold, and standing is not a plan.

Item Why this one Qty Price Buy
AICLIV 8x10ft Game Room Area Rug An 8 by 10 ft rug under the play area kills the echo, warms a concrete slab and marks the room as a room. It is also the cheapest visual change available to a basement. 1 $119.99 Price
HOOBRO 23.6in Saddle Stools, Set of 2 Two saddle stools at 23.6 in, which is counter height rather than bar height. Perching, not lounging: a game room seat that is too comfortable stops people getting back up to throw. 1 $50.99 Price
Codi 4ft Bean Bag Chair Optional The one soft seat. Somebody is going to want to watch rather than play, and a bean bag takes no floor plan and stores against a wall. 1 $129.99 Price
C&AHOME 16-Cube Storage Organizer Cues, darts, chalk, spare flights and the box the board came in. A game room with nowhere to put things becomes a storage room within a year, and then it is not a game room. 1 $35.97 Price
Viper Dry Erase Dart Scoreboard A dry erase scoreboard. Scoring on a phone kills the game stone dead, and this is thirty dollars. 1 $29.99 Price
Floor, seating and the rest of the room subtotal $366.93
Starter build total, 15 items
$1,398.51

Nothing in this build needs professional installation, a dedicated circuit or a delivery appointment with a two-man crew. That is the defining feature of the tier, not an accident of the price. Everything ships to a door, assembles with the tools in a kitchen drawer, and can be moved out by two people in an afternoon if the room changes.

Room for darts alone
9 ft 9 in x 5 ft
Room with the 7 ft table
13 ft 6 in x 16 ft 9 in
Room with 52 in short cues
12 ft 6 in x 15 ft 9 in
Ceiling height
7 ft 6 in minimum
Electrical
One standard 15 A circuit
Installation
None, self assembly

Prices were accurate when this list was compiled and change constantly, so confirm each one before ordering. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.

Where the money goes, and why

Roughly a third of this build is the pool table and its accessories, another third is the floor, the seating and the storage, and the remaining third splits between the dartboard and the lighting. That last split is the one people get wrong. A hundred dollars of cross lighting changes the room more than three hundred dollars of anything else, because a single bulb behind the player throws a body shadow directly onto the target, and no amount of expensive equipment fixes that.

Where it goes Spend What that part actually buys
Darts $215 The game that gets played on a Tuesday. Hangs on a wall, needs no floor plan.
Pool $748 The game that makes people come over. Needs the most space by a wide margin.
Lighting $69 The cheapest thing on this page and the biggest single improvement in it.
Floor, seating, storage $367 Whether anyone stays in the room for two hours or leaves after twenty minutes.
Complete room $1,399 Playable the weekend it lands.

The build order, over one weekend

  1. Lights first, before anything is in the way. Two 4 ft LED shop lights go up either side of the play area, not down the middle. The reason is shadows: a light directly overhead and behind you puts your own silhouette on the board and on the cloth. Two sources at forty five degrees cancels that. Link them with the supplied cables and run one cord to one outlet.
  2. Rug down, before the table. The 8 by 10 ft rug goes down while the floor is empty, because sliding a rug under an assembled pool table is a two-person job that you will not want to do. On a concrete slab it is also the difference between a room that feels cold and one that does not.
  3. Dartboard, to the numbers. Bull at exactly 5 ft 8 in from the finished floor, throw line at 7 ft 9.25 in measured horizontally from the face of the board. Check the diagonal from bull to the back of the oche at 9 ft 7.375 in, which catches an out-of-plumb wall. The dartboard layout calculator does all three numbers, and the hanging guide covers the anchors.
  4. Pool table last, and check both orientations. Most rooms are not square, and most people put the table lengthwise along the longest wall without ever testing the other way round. Turning it costs nothing and rescues a surprising number of rooms. The fit calculator tests both.
  5. Storage, stools, scoreboard. Twenty minutes of work and the thing that decides whether the room still looks like this in a year.

What we deliberately left out, and why

A starter build earns its name by what it refuses to buy. Four things that appear on almost every other list at this price are not here.

  • A slate pool table. The cheapest genuinely good slate table is around $2,000 before delivery, and delivery plus professional levelling adds $300 to $600 on top with a further surcharge for stairs. That is the entire budget of this build spent on one item, and it is the right call at the next tier up rather than this one. Full figures in what installation actually costs.
  • An electronic dartboard. They score automatically, which sounds like the obvious upgrade and is not, because soft tip play throws from a longer line and the plastic tips behave differently enough that the practice does not transfer to a bristle board. The argument in full is in bristle against electronic.
  • Anything with a compressor or a keg in it. A kegerator is a $550 to $900 appliance that also wants a dedicated circuit. That belongs in the full buildout, not in a spare bedroom.
  • An arcade cabinet. Even the small home cabinets start around $150 for a countercade and $500 for a deluxe, and they are the easiest thing in this hobby to add later because they need almost no clearance. Buy the room first.

Upgrades that are worth it later, in order

Assume this build works and the room gets used. The sequence that gets the most improvement per dollar, from someone who already owns everything above:

  1. Better darts, about $35. A tungsten set such as the Red Dragon Pegasus is slimmer than a brass dart of the same weight, so three darts fit in a treble bed that would not take three brass ones. This is included in the build above precisely because it is that good a buy.
  2. Phenolic balls, about $130. The Aramith Crown set is the cheapest phenolic set worth owning. Polyester balls chip and go out of round, and out-of-round balls make a mediocre table feel much worse than it is.
  3. A proper table light, $120 to $220. A 59 in pendant hung 30 to 36 in above the cloth is the single biggest visual change a pool room can make. See the light height calculator.
  4. A dehumidifier, about $200, if the room is below grade. A 50 pint unit protects the cloth, the cabinet and the dartboard. Sisal boards genuinely do not like a damp basement.
  5. Then stop, and save for slate. Past this point the money should go into the next tier rather than into upgrading a table that cannot be upgraded.
The honest limit of this tier: an MDF bed cannot be levelled back to flat once it sags, and it cannot be re-clothed economically. When the roll goes, the table is finished. If you already know you want a pool table for the next twenty years, this build is the wrong shape for you and the mid-range build is the right one. Buying MDF now and slate in three years costs more in total than buying slate now.

If the room is smaller than this

A spare bedroom of about 11 by 12 ft takes the darts half of this build comfortably and the pool table not at all. That is a common outcome and it is not a failure. The small room build is designed around exactly that constraint and swaps the pool table for games that are played from one side or from the ends: bumper pool, a bartop arcade cabinet, a folding poker top. The space requirements guide lists the floor area every anchor game needs side by side, so you can pick the game that fits rather than trying to shrink the game you wanted.

Where to go from here

If this build fits your room and your budget, the next thing to read is the dartboard roundup, which covers the cabinet sets in more detail, and the pool table roundup, which puts the GoSports next to the slate tables so you can see exactly what the extra money buys. If you are weighing this against spending more, the buildout comparison puts all three tiers next to each other with their totals, and the budget planner lets you price your own combination instead of ours.

Frequently asked questions

What is the cheapest way to build a real game room?

A dartboard, a regulation throw line, cross lighting and somewhere to sit will give you a room people use every evening for under $284. Darts is the only serious game that fits a spare bedroom, mounts on a wall and needs no floor plan at all. Add a 7 ft MDF pool table when you are sure the room is going to stay a game room, which brings the complete build in this guide to about $1,399.

Is an MDF pool table a waste of money?

No, as long as you know what you are buying. An MDF bed is flat when it arrives and stays roughly flat for three to eight years of home use before it develops a sag under the weight of its own rail structure, and it cannot be resurfaced. That is a legitimate purchase for a family that is not sure anyone will play, for a rented house, or for a room that might become a nursery. It is a poor purchase for someone who already knows they want a pool table for twenty years, because that person should save for slate instead.

How much space does a starter game room need?

Darts alone needs a lane of about 9 ft 9 in long by 5 ft wide, which fits along the long wall of most spare bedrooms. Adding a 7 ft pool table raises the requirement sharply to 13 ft 6 in by 16 ft 9 in with a standard 58 in cue, or 12 ft 6 in by 15 ft 9 in if you accept 52 in short cues. Measure before you order the table, not after.

Can a game room and a spare bedroom share a space?

Darts, yes, easily. A cabinet dartboard closes into what looks like a wall cupboard, the throw line is a strip of tape you can lift, and a folding stool stores flat. A pool table, no: it needs a permanent clear band of a full cue length on all four sides, and nothing else can live in that band. If the room has to do two jobs, the dartboard is the whole answer and the money saved should go into lighting and flooring.

What should I buy first if I can only buy one thing?

The dartboard cabinet set, and then immediately the throw line tape. A board hung at the regulation 5 ft 8 in bull height with the oche at 7 ft 9.25 in is a real game that transfers to any pub or league board in the world. A board hung by eye at whatever height looked right is a toy, and you will have to rehang it later after learning bad muscle memory.

How long does this build take to put together?

One weekend, comfortably, with no trades involved. The dartboard cabinet is two anchors and a level. The MDF pool table is roughly two hours with two people and the supplied hex key. The shop lights are plug-in fixtures with linking cables if you have ceiling outlets, or a chain and a plug if you do not. Nothing in this build needs an electrician, a delivery crew or a permit, which is a large part of why it is the starting tier.

Measuring your own room before anything is delivered? The Game Room Layout Planner is the paid version of these pages: 8 printable worksheets you fill in with your own numbers, plus the full PDF, $29.

How we work: we compare published manufacturer dimensions, the governing playing standards for each game, and reviews from owners who live with the equipment. We do not test games in person, and we say so on every page. Clearance figures here are researched guidance for planning a room, not professional advice: measure your own space, and have a slate table delivered, assembled and levelled by an installer rather than moving it yourself.