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GameRoomSetup

Game Room Guides: Planning, Installing and Living With It

Updated 2026-08-17 Researched from published specs, not tested in person
The short answer

Build a game room in this order: electrical while the ceiling is open, then flooring, then lighting, then the heavy anchor game, then everything else. That sequence is dependency rather than preference, and every step taken out of order costs money to correct later.

20 guides covering everything that happens either side of the purchase: working out what the room can take, getting the equipment into it, and keeping it right afterwards. Roundups tell you what to buy. These tell you what happens next, which is usually the part that costs more than people budgeted for.

The order is not negotiable. Electrical, then flooring, then lighting, then the heavy table, then everything else. Cable goes in before a ceiling is closed, flooring goes down before anything heavy stands on it, the pendant has to be centred on the table rather than on the room, and slate has to be levelled on its final floor. The expensive version of this mistake is a table installed first and a floor laid around six legs afterwards.

Every guide

Start with the four questions that decide everything

  1. How much clear floor is there, to the nearest permanent obstruction? Not to the wall behind the radiator. A 7 ft pool table needs 13 ft 6 in by 16 ft 9 in with a standard cue, and a column or a stair stringer inside that band takes those shots away permanently. Start with how much space each game needs.
  2. How high is the ceiling? Eight feet is the working minimum for a pool table with a pendant, and arcade basketball wants more than eight. Read the ceiling height guide before you fall in love with anything.
  3. What is the route in? Slate arrives in sections of 150 to 250 lb each and about 40 in on the long edge. A stair with a tight quarter-turn is where installer surcharges and outright refusals come from. Send photographs when you book, not on the day.
  4. Is the room below grade? If so, humidity is the first purchase rather than the last, and it comes before the table rather than after it. See humidity and climate control.

The costs these guides exist to warn you about

Cost Typical range Why it exists
Slate table delivery and professional setup $300 to $600 A three-piece slate table is assembled and levelled in the room. This is not optional and not a DIY job.
Stairs or tight-turn surcharge $50 to $200 Most installers charge extra per flight, and slate sections run 150 to 250 lb each.
Re-cloth at install (colour change) $300 to $500 Cheaper to do while the table is already apart than as a separate visit later.
Room-to-room or house move of an existing table $250 to $500 Dismantle, move, reassemble, re-level. Dragging a slate table across a floor cracks slate.
Dedicated 20 A circuit for arcade and bar equipment $200 to $600 A kegerator, two cabinets and a projector on one basement circuit will trip it.
Basement dehumidification $150 to $350 Cloth, hardwood cradles and slate shims all move with humidity. This protects the expensive things.

None of those appear on a product page and all of them are real. The complete picture is in what a game room actually costs, and the per-game version is in the cost by game chart.

What the guides cover, in the order you will need them

The two habits that separate a good room from an expensive one

First, measure to the obstruction rather than to the wall, and write it in inches. Rounding a room to the nearest half foot on paper is how six inches goes missing, and six inches is exactly the margin most tight rooms are decided by.

Second, spend on the light. It is the most consistently underfunded item in this hobby and the one with the highest ratio of improvement to cost. Overhead room lighting sits behind the player and throws a body shadow directly down the shot line, which is precisely the area you need to see. A fixture over the table puts the light between you and the cloth instead, and it costs a twentieth of the table. If you take one thing from any guide here, take that.

When you are ready to price a whole room rather than a single decision, the six buildouts do the work at six budgets, and the calculators answer the fit question in one screen.

Frequently asked questions

What is the right order to build a game room in?

Electrical, then flooring, then lighting, then the heavy anchor game, then everything else. That order is dependency rather than preference: cable and recessed cans go in before a ceiling is finished, flooring goes down before anything heavy stands on it, the pendant has to be centred on where the table will actually sit rather than on the centre of the room, and a slate table has to be levelled on its final floor. Everything after the table can be moved by two people in an afternoon and can therefore arrive in any order.

How long does it take to set up a game room?

A starter room with a dartboard, a self-assembly table, lighting and flooring is one weekend with no trades involved. A mid-range room with a slate table is two to three weeks in practice, most of which is waiting for an installation slot rather than working. A full buildout with electrical and finished flooring is a month or more, and the long pole is almost always the electrician and the table installer rather than anything you do yourself.

What do people most often regret in a game room?

Three things, consistently. Buying the table before measuring the room, which is unfixable. Spending everything on the anchor game and nothing on the light over it, which is a false economy because the fixture costs a twentieth of the table and changes how it plays. And skipping the dehumidifier below grade, which quietly damages the cloth, the cabinet and the dartboard over a single season and gets blamed on the equipment.

Is a game room worth the money?

That depends entirely on whether the room gets used, and the strongest predictor of that is not the quality of the anchor game. It is whether there is somewhere comfortable to sit, whether the light is good enough to play under, and whether the second game gives the people who are not playing something to do. A well lit room with a modest table and four stools gets used more than a dark room with an expensive table and nowhere to sit, every time.

Measuring your own room before anything is delivered? The Game Room Layout Planner is the paid version of these pages: 8 printable worksheets you fill in with your own numbers, plus the full PDF, $29.

How we work: we compare published manufacturer dimensions, the governing playing standards for each game, and reviews from owners who live with the equipment. We do not test games in person, and we say so on every page. Clearance figures here are researched guidance for planning a room, not professional advice: measure your own space, and have a slate table delivered, assembled and levelled by an installer rather than moving it yourself.