7 ft vs 8 ft Pool Table: Let the Room Decide
A 7 ft pool table needs 13 ft 6 in by 16 ft 9 in of clear floor with a standard 58 in cue and an 8 ft needs 14 ft by 17 ft 8 in, a difference of about 0'6" in width and 0'11" in length. Seven feet is what almost every bar plays on and is right for most homes. Buy 8 ft only if you measured the room first.
This decision is made by a tape measure, not by preference, and that is the most useful thing to know before reading anything else about it. A 7 ft table is not the small option and an 8 ft table is not the serious one. They are two sizes with different room requirements, and the room almost always picks.
The gap is about 0'6" of width and 0'11" of length, which is roughly a foot in each direction and exactly the margin most basements are decided by. Seven feet is what the overwhelming majority of bars, leagues and pub tournaments play on, so it is not a compromise size in any meaningful sense.
Side by side
| Question | 7 ft (bar box) | 8 ft (home standard) |
|---|---|---|
| Playing surface | 39" x 78" | 44" x 88" |
| Cabinet, outside | 46" x 85" | 52" x 96" |
| Room, 58 in cue | 13 ft 6 in x 16 ft 9 in | 14 ft x 17 ft 8 in |
| Room, 52 in cue | 12 ft 6 in x 15 ft 9 in | 13 ft x 16 ft 8 in |
| Floor area, 58 in cue | 227 sq ft | 248 sq ft |
| What bars use | Almost all of them | Rare in bars |
| Longest shot | Demanding but reachable | Genuinely long |
| Position play | Forgiving | Punishes a loose cue ball |
| Pocket difficulty, same specification | Slightly easier | Slightly harder |
| Typical price gap, same build | Baseline | A few hundred more |
| Weight | 700 to 800 lb | 800 to 1,000 lb |
Clearance for both, at every cue length
| Cue | 7 ft table | 8 ft table | 8.5 ft oversized |
|---|---|---|---|
| 58 in, full length (standard) | 13'6" x 16'9" | 14'0" x 17'8" | 14'2" x 18'0" |
| 52 in, short cue | 12'6" x 15'9" | 13'0" x 16'8" | 13'2" x 17'0" |
| 48 in, short cue | 11'10" x 15'1" | 12'4" x 16'0" | 12'6" x 16'4" |
| 42 in, very short | 10'10" x 14'1" | 11'4" x 15'0" | 11'6" x 15'4" |
| 36 in, shorty | 9'10" x 13'1" | 10'4" x 14'0" | 10'6" x 14'4" |
How each one plays
An 8 ft table is a harder game in three specific ways, and none of them is about the pockets. Long shots are genuinely long, so a stroke that is slightly off line has more distance to express itself. Position play matters more, because the cue ball has further to travel between shots and a loose one leaves a harder next shot. And safety play opens up, because there is more table to hide a ball behind.
A 7 ft table compresses all of that. Shots are shorter and easier to make, the cue ball is always near something, and games move faster. That is why bar pool feels the way it does, and it is also why a 7 ft table is more fun for a mixed-ability group: a beginner can pot a ball, which on a 9 ft table they largely cannot.
Neither is a better game in the abstract. If you play in a league or a bar, you play on 7 ft, and practising on the same size is a real advantage rather than a consolation.
How to decide, in four steps
- Measure the room to the nearest permanent obstruction. Not to the wall behind the radiator, and in inches rather than rounded to the nearest half foot.
- Test both orientations. Most rooms are not square and most people never try the other way round. The fit calculator does both automatically.
- If the 8 ft fits with a full cue on all four sides, take it if you want the harder game. If it fits only with short cues on more than one wall, do not.
- If it does not fit, buy the 7 ft and stop worrying about it. It is what the game is played on nearly everywhere, and a properly levelled 7 ft table in a room with space around it beats an 8 ft table jammed into a corner on every measure that matters.
What to buy at each size
- 7 ft, buy once: the Legacy Baylor II , three-piece slate shipped with an accessory kit. The Empire Dakota 7 ft is the same idea with different cabinet styling.
- 7 ft, tight budget: the GoSports 7 ft in MDF, with the honest caveats in slate against MDF.
- 8 ft, best value slate: the Mizerak Dakota , which is the cheapest way into a slate 8 ft from a name that has been making them for decades.
- 8 ft, furniture grade: the Playcraft Charles River , with leather drop pockets and a cabinet that reads as furniture rather than equipment.
- 7 ft, open budget: the Plank and Hide Isaac , for a tight room where the money can go into cabinet and finish rather than size.
Related
Check your own room with the room size calculator and the full matrix in the room size chart. The bed material decision is in slate against MDF, the tables themselves are in the pool table roundup, and if the room came back short in both directions, the small room roundup is built entirely around that problem.
Deciding on a specific model? We review the Empire USA Dakota 7 ft slate pool table review, Legacy Baylor II 7 ft slate pool table review and GoSports 7 ft pool table review in full.
Frequently asked questions
Should I buy a 7 ft or an 8 ft pool table?
Whichever the room takes, and for most homes that is 7 ft. A 7 ft table needs 13 ft 6 in by 16 ft 9 in with a standard cue and an 8 ft needs 14 ft by 17 ft 8 in, a difference of 0'6" in width and 0'11" in length. Seven feet is what almost every bar plays on, so it is not a compromise size. Buy the 8 ft only if you measured first and the room genuinely takes it.
Is an 8 ft pool table better than a 7 ft?
It plays a harder and arguably better game, in that longer shots are more demanding and position play is punished more severely. That is a genuine step up for a player who wants it. It is not better in a room that does not take it, because a table you cannot play half the shots on is not a compromise, it is a permanent restriction. A well levelled 7 ft table beats a badly squeezed 8 ft table every single time.
What size pool table do bars use?
Seven feet, overwhelmingly, and it is why the size exists as a category at all. The bar box is what league play, pub tournaments and casual bar pool are almost all contested on, and the eight-ball game as most people know it was substantially shaped by that table. Buying a 7 ft table for a home means practising on the size you will play on everywhere else, which is a real and underrated advantage.
What is the difference between an 8 ft and an oversized 8 ft table?
A regulation 8 ft has a playing surface of 44 by 88 inches. An oversized 8 ft, often sold as a pro 8 or an 8.5 ft, is 46 by 92 inches with a cabinet two inches wider and four inches longer. Both get marketed as eight foot tables. That difference takes the room requirement from 14 ft by 17 ft 8 in to 14 ft 2 in by 18 ft, which is enough to turn a room that just worked into one that does not.
Does an 8 ft table cost much more than a 7 ft?
Less than people expect, typically a few hundred dollars for the same build quality, because the difference is mostly material rather than engineering. The larger cost is in the room: an 8 ft table needs roughly a foot more in each direction, which is often the difference between a room that works with the furniture where it is and one that needs rearranging. Judge this on space rather than on price.
Can I fit an 8 ft table with short cues?
Yes, in the sense that the arithmetic works: an 8 ft table with 52 in cues needs 13 ft by 16 ft 8 in, which is less than a 7 ft table with full cues. Whether it is the right choice is another question. A 7 ft table with 58 in cues plays a better game than an 8 ft table with short cues on every wall, because the compromise on a bigger table is felt on every shot rather than on a few.
Measuring your own room before anything is delivered? The Game Room Layout Planner is the paid version of these pages: 8 printable worksheets you fill in with your own numbers, plus the full PDF, $29.
How we work: we compare published manufacturer dimensions, the governing playing standards for each game, and reviews from owners who live with the equipment. We do not test games in person, and we say so on every page. Clearance figures here are researched guidance for planning a room, not professional advice: measure your own space, and have a slate table delivered, assembled and levelled by an installer rather than moving it yourself.